Revelstoke Travel Photographer - Where to eat, sleep, and hike on the Bonavista Peninsula in Newfoundland
Katee Pederson
After enjoying a weekend in St. John’s, it’s easy to see that Newfoundland is full of so much more to discover. If you’ve got time to spare, rent a car for a couple days and take a drive west. I headed for the hiking trails along the east coast of the Bonavista Panisuala and I cannot recommend this area enough. On top of the beautiful views, the region was full of cute bakeries, trendy breweries, delicious food, and the most hospitable people. Note that tourism in this area is seasonal and most amenities are open from May to October.
Stay
Photos of the Skerwink Hostel by The Food Girl In Town.
There are loads of Bed and Breakfast’s throughout the region, but I cannot recommend the Skerwink Hostel in Trinity East enough - it might even be my favourite hostel I’ve ever stayed at. The property is made up of two colourful buildings along with a third where the owners’ live. The main building houses the office, a homey living room area, kitchen and eating area, bathrooms, as well as private and dorm rooms. The second building, which can be rented out as a whole for larger groups, has dorm rooms, bathrooms, and a common kitchen and living space. The hostel also has a camping area with campfire pit. The property is clean, spacious, and freshly renovated. Bookings include a delicious breakfast spread, plus you’re only a few hundred metres from the Skerwink Trailhead. It’s the perfect place to rest your feet and make some friends after a full day of exploring. The Skerwink Hostel website indicates that the hostel is closed for the 2020 season but I can only hope it will re-open with the rest of the world following the Covid-19 pandemic.
HikE
All of these trails are loops, so you don’t need to worry about transportation back to your starting point or travelling the same path twice. They are all easy to moderate in difficulty and less than 10km, so you can fit them in an hour or two. They each have their own unique coastal views with the chance of whale sightings if the season is right.
Fox Island Trail
Drive towards Champney’s West (not to be confused with Champney’s or Champney’s Arm) and follow the signs for Fox Island Trail, turning right just before town. This trail is around 6km, depending which route you take. I recommend travelling counterclockwise and sticking to the coast for the best views and to finish the hike passing through the quaint town. We didn’t cross the rocky beach to climb up onto to the island, but it looks like it would make for a great vantage point.
Skerwink Trail
This trail is one you’ll here lots about, and for good reason! I liked it so much I did it twice - once in mid afternoon and then again at sunrise. As the crown jewel of the Hike Discovery Network, it’s easy to find the Skerwink Trail by following signs after turning south off Highway 230 towards Port Rexton. The trail is under 5km but has an amazing range of views.
The trail begins wide and leads past a couple of homes and into the forest before thinning out as it approaches the cliffs. You duck in and out of the forest along the way, with amazing vantage points of sea stacks and steep cliffs as you go. About mid-way you find yourself at the point of the peninsula on a large grassy hill, looking out at the magnificent blue waters. Continuing along the clockwise you’ll begin to see bits of the town of Trinity. The lookout is worth the climb, boasting a 360 degree view of the area. And don’t worry, it’s all downhill from there as you make your way back to sea level and out to the trailhead. There’s a rocky beach you pass here as well, which I suspect would be a great spot for a quick swim on a hot summer day.
Murphey’s Cove to Lodge Pond Trail
Also known as Murphey’s Cove Loop, this 7.7km is located in Port Union. Turn into town using the south access and follow the signs to park by the gazebo. This loop offers unique views of the Green Island Lighthouse but my favourite part is the harsh rocky shorelines. We got rained on a bit while on this trail but it only made for more dramatic skies.
Chance Cove Coastal Trail
While Chance Cove isn’t technically on the Bonavista Peninsula, you’ll pass it on your way to and from to St. John’s and it’s too wonderful not to stop. Turn northeast off the Trans-Canada following signs for Chance Cove and you’ll see the trailhead just before town after turning left at the dead end. The All Trails information indicates that the trail starts further up the road and ends at the parking area, but we found it’s best to park in the lot on the south end. You can easily turn it into a loop either by walking along the road back to your car or, when you return to the lake, turn left to be back onto the same trail you began on.
This trail stands out because of it’s hidden beaches that you can climb down to. It was my favourite spot from any of the hikes and I only wish the weather had been nice enough for a swim. Signs indicate that using the provided ropes to descend to the beach is at your own risk, so as always test the rope first and be careful not to fall.
Just a short walk from the Skerwink Hostel is an awesome craft brewery in Port Rexton. Their local beers are the perfect reward after a day of hiking and being able to walk home means you can have more than one. Though the taproom doesn’t serve food, there’s a food truck out front to help you out. Oh My Cheeses is everything you’ve ever dreamed of if you’ve ever dreamed of gourmet grilled cheese. It’s the perfect beer food which you can enjoy both next to the fire on the patio or inside the bar. Minors are welcome with guardians if they are there for a meal.
Two Whales Coffee Shop
You’ll find this great lunch stop just across the highway from Port Rexton. Sourcing local ingredients for vegan and vegetarian specialties, this is a great spot to green up your typical Newfie diet of seafood and craft beer. You can get your caffeine fix from their comprehensive coffee menu and be sure to save room for dessert - their cakes and brownies are mouth watering.
The Boreal Diner
Located in the town of Bonavista, this cozy dinner spot was home of one of my favourite meals in Newfoundland - I actually had my server pack me up some of their balsamic maple butter to go because I wanted it on my toast the next morning. With beautiful wood finishings in their two story building and locally sourced ingredients common to the boreal forest, this restaurant had me feeling like I was at home in Northern Saskatchewan. Chaga tea lattes, fresh pasta with foraged mushrooms, and desserts full of wild berries give you a hint of some of the delicacies on their rotating menu.
Explore
The Town of Trinity
It’s well worth taking an hour to walk around this historic town. Complete with beautiful views and local cultural landmarks like the Green Family Forge, you’re sure to learn a thing or two on your walk. Don’t forget to pop in at Aunt Sarah’s Chocolate Shop for a gift to bring home for a loved one (and a treat for yourself). If the season is right, you can’t get closer to fresh crab or lobster served at any of their local restaurants.
Elliston Puffin Viewing Site
Located on the east side of the town of Elliston, on the northeast point of the peninsula, is a great spot for viewing puffins. The small birds like to hang out on a rock just off shore and if you’re lucky they’ll come fly closer to say hi. They blend in well with the rock and are not easy to spot if they’re keeping their space, but the dramatic shores make a nice view none the less.
The Town of Dildo
Though not on the Bonavista Peninsula, the town of Dildo is worth a quick detour on your way from St. John’s. Recently made famous on Jimmy Kimmel, this town has become a must-see tourist hotspot overnight. But the novelty is only a portion of the reason to visit! This town is home to one of the most beautiful bays I’ve ever seen, with Caribbean like aquamarine waters. It’s a great place to stop for lunch as well, at either Dildo Cove Coffee & Krafts or Dildo Brewing Co.
